Damkier's Travels: Amtrak California Zephyr

California Zephyr Parked at Glenwood Springs, CO

As a man who loves trains, it was only a matter of time before I finally took a long-distance train ride across the United States. Amtrak operates several long-distance trains that cover much of the same routes of the classic American trains that used to be the best option before the Interstate Highway System forever changed the country. The California Zephyr recreates most of the original route between Oakland, CA and Chicago, IL stopping in Salt Lake City and Denver. This route is considered one of the most scenic routes in the world and absolutely lives up to its reputation.

Free Coffee in the Superliner Roomette

Most people have ridden a train in their lifetime. There are many commuter railroads, intercity rail - domestic & international, and classic scenic railroads with steam and classic options. Few people under the age of 40 have ever spent two days on a train. My trip left Sacramento, CA at 11:00 AM on a Tuesday and arrived in Chicago at 4:00 PM on a Thursday. That's 50 hours! I splurged and had a Superliner Roomette which is essentially two large chairs facing each other in a closet with a large picture window to the world. At night, the attendant converts the room into twin bunk beds complete with sheets and a mattress.

Daytime Seat with Pillow

I was very surprised in the overall comfort of the room. It is extremely small and basic, but its functional layout, including power outlets and lighting, makes it a good option for single or couple travel. The rooms are on two levels of the train with shared bathrooms. I had no major problems with the bathrooms other than a rather awkward shower once the train started moving. Lots of privacy is available in the sleeping car with free meals and lots of coffee, juice, and ice water.

Train Climbing the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Truckee, CA

The first day of the trip involves passing over the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range between Sacramento and Reno. The route roughly follows Interstate 80 - or should I say Interstate 80 roughly follows the route since the tracks were here first! You get a very different view of the mountains from the train, although many sections have views from one side of the train only. It takes about 5 hours to arrive in Reno, but the time seems to slip away as you are mesmerized by the spectacular scenery. You can also have lunch on the train. Food is included with the sleeping car, but is available for purchase for those in coach.

Amtrak Steak with Baked Potato and Vegetables

Speaking of food, this is one of the less interesting part of the trip. On a multi-day trip, you will eat a lot of meals. Amtrak has a standard menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner with only a few items. The food is just OK, nothing really special, but you can join your fellow passengers for a nice conversation. Alcohol is available on board for purchase, but make sure to bring lots of cash. On my trip, the dining car did not accept credit cards the whole trip and ATM are very rare on the trip. Most of the passengers are older, retired couples with most of the younger passengers eating in coach so be prepared for conversations about Social Security and grandkids!

Sunrise in Southern Utah

Sleeping on the train is a challenge. Some people can sleep like a baby while under fire rolling in a tank. Others like me need a nice bed and a quiet dark room. The train is a noisy and jolting experience. The motion of the train can be both soothing and jarring as the wheels hit joints in the track or pass over switchers. You will hear and feel everything, so you may have sleeping problems if you are sensitive to this. Needless to say, I did not get much sleep on the train alternating between hot and cold from the weak HVAC system and being pushed to either side of the bed all night long. Fortunately the lower bunk is long enough for most tall men, but the top bunk is really for the shorter companion.

Crossing the Rockies following the Colorado River

The second day of the train is just absolutely spectacular! I slept through most of Utah even though the train stopped to exchange several passengers in the early morning hours. Interestingly enough, most of the train's passengers do not go the whole route. Many use Amtrak to go between cities or to connect from smaller cities along the route. This was also a nice excuse to get off the train for a "fresh air break" or "smoke break" depending on your habit.

Most of the day however was spent gawking at the awesome scenery as the train followed the Colorado River on its long and windy path up into the Rocky Mountains. Be warned, there are many people on the river rafting and fishing and some of them really enjoy mooning and flashing the train as it slowly but surely chugs its way up into the heavens.

Far Left Outfield of Coors Field in Denver, CO

The California Zephyr uses the Moffat Tunnel to make the last six mile journey under the mountains at a top elevation of 9,239 feet. A not insignificant part of the journey uses a single track, including the long tunnel trip, which can lead to some impressive delays waiting for a freight train to pass. It is common to stop on a side rail for some time waiting on freight trains as they have priority on the rails. Amtrak is given certain slots and delays can quickly cascade causing sometimes insurmountable delays. This is the main reason efforts are underway to build dedicated high-speed rail for passengers and add additional capacity to eliminate bottlenecks. Freight usually does not care about delays, but people do.

Corn Fields between Denver and Chicago

After leaving Denver, the train journey changes drastically. I was able to sleep - or attempt to sleep - during the whole state of Nebraska. I saw Omaha and Des Moines last year, so I did not miss anything new. After breakfast, it is just a long flat ride through hundreds of miles of corn and coal train delays. Yes, that wonderful coal that not only is polluting our air and warming the planet is also clogging up the railroad. Boo coal! After two nights rolling around the bunk, I was fortunate we were only about an hour late arriving in Chicago.

Finally Approaching Downtown Chicago

I now understand why we stopped using trains. The railroads really only care about freight and are able to maintain a basic system with lots of delays and rough rails because coal and ethanol do not complain about the trip. This cavalier attitude convinced the United States to invest in Interstate Highways as an alternative. What about the airlines you say? They did not destroy the rails nearly as much as subsidized interstate trucking and long-distance family car trips. Airlines grabbed a decent amount of the market, but without the lucrative intercity passenger and high-value freight, our rail system has disintegrated into a bargain basement system for slowly moving low value freight long distances.

Rural Colorado Ranches and Mountains

I really did enjoy my long journey on the California Zephyr. It is a rather unique vacation and an excellent way to appreciate the raw beauty of the American West. The segment between Sacramento and Denver is really the only part worth taking. One night on the train is enough, and dealing with the motion is really difficult. I was spinning for the entire night upon arrival in Chicago. Bring cash, booze, and lots of snack and you will be OK. Stop in Denver; you might as well get your "land legs" back at a hotel in Denver than wasting a day traveling through endless fields of corn. Please enjoy the rest of my journey below.