Thursday, January 25, 2018

New York City - January 2018

Cold and Snowy in New York City
When you get a chance for a free bedroom and free airplane ticket to visit New York City, you do not usually pass up the opportunity. Even when it is below freezing with cold winds and snow, a free trip to one of the world's best cities is too good to pass up. Especially when you get to stay with a great friend from college. I visited New York City last in 2016 during a summer heat wave, so it was only fitting to visit at the other end of the weather spectrum.

9/11 Memorial at New York Fire Museum
After a long day of air travel with multiple delays and a long layover in Denver due to the weather, I finally arrived to my swank SoHo apartment around 2:00 AM. The city's second oldest bar was downstairs still serving happy patrons on an early Saturday morning, but I was ready to crash into the mattress instead of a bar stool. The next morning came late due to jet lag, but just around the corner was the New York Fire Museum. Since the weather changed from 55 to 25 degrees overnight, I piled on my winter clothes and headed down to the museum. It was somewhat small and jumbled, but the museum showcased the history of fighting fire in New York. Now I know that the term "company" referred to private companies that would fight fires, and the term "engine" referred to the original engine towed to a site to pump water. The memorial to the victims of 9/11 was emotional as always.

Central Park in Winter
After bundling up, we headed to Harlem for a Caribbean seafood lunch and a tour of the Hamilton Grange National Memorial - the summer home of Alexander Hamilton. There is now a cottage industry in Hamilton tours based on the popularity of the musical. After a long night at a local comedy club watching open mic and joking with comedians until the early morning hours, we turned in for the night and awoke on Sunday to a super cold day with wind chills in the single digits. Just another day in New York!

Interior of the Frick Collection
Sunday was very, very cold. Everyone in New York headed inside, specifically to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. We attempted to enter, but were quickly overwhelmed by the crowd. I grabbed a hot dog from a street vendor and suggested we head down the street to the Frick Collection. That was a great idea! The Frick houses a large collection of art amassed by Frick himself. He turned coal into diamonds with a spectacular mansion housing exquisite art in an intimate setting. It is really like being in someone's house. Around the corner was a fancy French bakery which made a perfect snack before heading to Long Island for dinner with friends. Again, just another day in New York!

Lower East Side of Manhattan
Tuesday, I was back in New York to play tourist. It was still very cold, so I started the day exploring all the areas I missed the last time. First up was the Lower East Side which was originally home to many immigrants, but has evolved into a hip and upscale area with lots of great food including several authentic delis. New York delis are a true culinary treasure, and Russ and Daughters is a great Kosher dairy deli with smoked fish, cream cheese, and amazing bagels. I snagged loin lox with scallion cream cheese on a toasted everything bagel. It was a delight to eat it on a park bench in the middle of the busy street!

Tenement Museum Backyard
The Tenement Museum is a unique opportunity to visit some historic partially restored tenements on the Lower East Side. Tenements were the original apartments with a bedroom, kitchen, and living room in one unit with toilets and laundry in the backyard. These small units were actually decent living, although having a family with several kids in such a small area meant close quarters for all! The museum has tour guides providing a rich living history into the plight of immigrants in New York which mirrors the current debates around immigration and the American experience. It is said that history does not repeat itself, but it often rhymes!

New Jersey Devils at New York Islanders
Tuesday night ended with delicious pizza and a hockey game. Local rivals from New Jersey and Long Island were playing at the new Barclay's Center. Tickets were almost as cheap as the expensive beer making for a relatively affordable night. We experienced a close first period, but the Devils were too hot for the Islanders. Fights were common on and off the ice that night with several in the stands near our seats. Fortunately, we escaped into the nearby subway to head back to Manhattan for a good night sleep.

NYPD Smart Car with Brooklyn Bridge
Wednesday was my last day in the city, and it was the day it started snowing. I awoke to falling snow outside the window, although nothing was really sticking. It was fortunate that I brought my boots as the sidewalks were full of ice and slush making walking very slippery. The combination of cold and wet made being outside increasingly difficult, but made me feel for those who live on the streets full time. Wall Street was heavily guarded and echoed the cold and gray day, but I was still impressed by the architecture and history of the area. This part of Manhattan also has the City Hall with a popular walkway across the Brooklyn Bridge. Only the bravest cross during the snow!

Winter in Times Square
After a wonderful lunch at my favorite Jewish deli, I headed to Times Square for a musical. Come From Away is a popular show about a small Canadian town that hosted thousands of stranded travelers when planes were diverted from the United States on 9/11. The combination of a global panic and a local crisis made for an interesting time and an enjoyable musical. I laughed and cried with the material and really enjoyed the experience. My cheap ticket had a slightly obstructed view, but saved me hundreds! Even during a cold winter day, Times Square was buzzing with tourists and locals enjoying the excitement.

Lower Manhattan on the Hudson River
My final day was spent waking up too early and flying cross country with more delays and cold weather. The Newark Airport is just through the Holland Tunnel beneath our apartment, so the first leg was the easiest! That is the price you pay, but I should feel great that I can travel over 3,000 miles during the winter in just a few hours. My trip was busy and short as always, but I had a great time on my 3rd trip to our largest city. Please enjoy the rest of my pictures below.

Subway Entrance
New York Fire Museum Interior
Hamilton Grange National Memorial Interior
Laudree Bakery Display Case
Fancy Raspberry Pastry with Rose Petal
Long Island Rail Road Interior
Apartment Interior
Holland Tunnel Entrance near Apartment
Old Town New York along Greenwich Street
Smoked Salmon Bagel Sandwich
Front of Tenement Museum with Eight Units
New Second Avenue Subway
Spicy Pepperoni Pizza Slices
Graveyard at Trinity Church in Wall Street
Pastrami Sandwich with Potato Pancakes
Grand Central Station Interior
Come From Away Show Interior
Famous Vertical Parking in Manhattan

Philadelphia - January 2018

Independence Hall in Downtown Philadelphia
Let me being by saying that January is a tough time to visit Philadelphia. Growing up in California and Arizona, we had "winter" when there was more rain and slightly cooler days. It has been a long time since I spent cold winters outside in Flagstaff during my college years, but an opportunity for a nearly free trip to New York City allowed me the opportunity for a day trip to Philadelphia. The weather was cold, but fortunately dry with much less wind.

Crossing the Frozen Delaware River like George Washington
Philadelphia is often overlooked on most East Coast trips. Situated halfway between Washington and New York City, this city is one of the largest in the United States with a rich history. Fortunately, most of the attractions are in downtown near the train station. My relatively fast train whisked me through the frozen countryside over 100 MPH and delivered me to downtown Philadelphia in about 90 minutes. The train was comfortable and spacious with a nice view of the landscape. I even got to cross a frozen Delaware River near Trenton like Washington - except warm in a comfortable seat!

Museum Entrance
My first stop on the whirlwind tour was the Museum of the American Revolution. This new museum details the events of the American Revolution in a multimedia environment with lots of information and artifacts in a beautiful building reminiscent of fine houses in the period. The museum includes a lot of different backgrounds including the Native and Slave experiences for a more balanced view of history, but the theme is still strong and a great lesson for all Americans. The museum is near all the historic buildings and the old town.

Liberty Bell Memorial
I previously visited Philadelphia in 2008 as part of another East Coast trip, so I had already seen most of the major sights including Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell. This allowed me to skip the rather long lines while still being able to see the major sights. Philadelphia has a weird transit system with limited subways, but they are decent at moving people through the major areas.

Roast Pork Sandwich
Philadelphia is also a great food town. World renown for their cheesesteak, many people equally enjoy their roast pork sandwiches loaded with aged cheese and broccoli sautéed in garlic and spice. The Reading Terminal Market is one of the best food destinations in the area with many different vendors selling food, drink, and many special treats from the Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Thousands visit daily to escape the cold and fill their stomachs and shopping bags with lots of great treats.

Eastern State Penitentiary Museum
It was time to go to prison. The Eastern State Penitentiary was the first of its kind in the world, created to attempt to reform and help criminals repent for their crimes and become better people. Before this, most experienced brutal punishments or death rather than being separated from society. Over the years, the facility degraded from star to near destruction. It is now a rather unique museum showcasing the weird beauty of the building, its storied history, and the overall state of prisons and crime in todays society. Unfortunately, it was not well heated so I did get rather cold here with temperatures below freezing. It was definitely worth visiting though.

Ben Franklin is Everywhere
Another jewel is the Philadelphia Museum of Art. This large and impressive museum is prominently featured in the area surrounded by a large park and sitting on a bluff overlooking the city and river. It was also famous for the scene in Rocky where Rocky is running up and down the stairs for training. Yes, there is a statue. Inside the museum, the atmosphere is much different. I arrived late in the day almost frostbitten, but I was still able to complete a fast run through most exhibits. They have a massive collection spanning nearly every art form and period with an impressive Impressionist exhibit and a sturdy classic furniture section. It is worth far more time than I had, but it was impossible to miss!

Cheesesteak from Cleaver's
It really is about the cheesesteak. Philadelphia really knows how to do it. The history has its favorites with Pat's, Geno's, and others packing in the tourists, but I was able to find a great place downtown in an upscale diner with quality ingredients. I grew up near a neighborhood restaurant in Arizona from Philadelphia that introduced me to the concept. It is deceptively simple - grilled sliced rib eye steak with chopped onions and cheese on a roll - but the overall effect is much more. Cheese Whiz is one of the classic toppings which is also my favorite. The Whiz melts into the sandwich creating a mild cheese flavor that works well with the perfectly grilled steak. The steak was massive, and sadly I had to through some of it out. However, it was the perfect way to conclude my day in Philadelphia.

Old Town Philadelphia
It was a cold day in January, but I was fortunate to spare a day to take the train to Philadelphia for a quick refresher course on one of America's historic cities. There are more than enough things to do in and around Philadelphia to justify many more days here, especially since there are more than enough places for a great cheesesteak! Please enjoy the rest of my pictures below.

Train Interior
Philadelphia Train Platform
Philadelphia Subway
Old Town Philadelphia with Narrow Street
Ship Exhibit in Museum of the American Revolution
Restored Cell in Eastern State Penitentiary
Snow and Penitentiary Wall
Interior of Eastern State Penitentiary
Icicles in Eastern State Penitentiary
Exterior of Philadelphia Museum of Art
Interior of Philadelphia Museum of Art