Sunday, April 2, 2017

Death Valley National Park

Me at the Lowest Point in the United States
Death Valley National Park is one of the most remote and extreme parts of Earth, but is conveniently located in Southern California. This legendary valley lies on the back of the massive Sierra Nevada mountain range and receives little to no rainfall and experiences the hottest climate in the world. Being a desert boy myself, I had to revisit Death Valley after having no luck finding pictures from my original trip.

Walking Across Salt Flats near Badwater
This area is extreme. There is little plant or animal life in such harsh conditions. Everything is named either death-something or devil's-something indicating that many people have died attempting to live or even pass through the area. Nevertheless, there is beauty in such a harsh climate which is what led to its designation as a National Park early on in the history of the park system. The park is massive, taking up a large section of the state, and houses a lot of wilderness areas completely untouched by humans. The mountainous parts of the park are home to lots of wildlife that is unique to the area.

Lone Hiker at Devil's Golf Course
Many visitors come to Death Valley as a day trip from Las Vegas. It is relatively easy to visit the Badwater and salt flats area of the park. This section is world famous for being 282 feet below sea level surrounded by massive mountain ranges for a surreal experience. Millenia of mountain runoff created a massive salt bed on which you can explore with no real restrictions. Even in the "cooler" months, this area still gets warm quickly with summer temperatures quickly approaching deadly levels.

Mountains near Artists Point
This area has long attracted visitors to gaze at the sheer color and clarity of the area. Death Valley is protected from lots of air and light pollutions making for crystal clear skies and nighttime views that display nearly every star in the universe. It is hard to drive around with so many great opportunities, but the hiking is also spectacular with great trails and amazing views. Conditions are famously harsh so prepare with LOTS of water and protective clothing.

Sand Dunes in Death Valley
Of course there are sand dunes in Death Valley! They have several, but the most popular are the Mesquite Sand Dunes near Stovepipe Wells on the western edge of the park. These dunes are very popular with people hiking or sledding all over them. If you hike out enough, you can enjoy the solitude and scenery with little to no interruption. Even with such remote conditions, the park maintains several hotels and visitor centers for much needed food, drink, water, and air conditioning.

Remote Entrance to Death Valley
One of the unique parts of Death Valley is the total silence. Once you get away from the roads and crowded sights, the sheer lack of noise is overwhelming. There are no birds or insects flying around. No wind rustling through your clothes or even planes overhead. Cell phones are useless with no texts or updates ringing in your pocket. You need to drag your feet on the ground to even remind you of what noise sounds like. This extreme desolation is a very unique experience in such an ever connected and hectic world.

Badwater
I highly recommend visiting Death Valley. Even though I was able to cram the park into a day trip, I really would rather spend the night in the park to enjoy the night sky and do some early morning hiking before the trails become too hot. This is a unique and spectacular part of our national park system and an enjoyable visit for all. Please enjoy the rest of my pictures below.

Devil's Golf Course
Close Up of Salt Crystals
Valley Walls near Artists Point
Mesquite Tree in Mesquite Sand Dunes
Sand Dunes with Valley Background
Devil's Golf Course Panorama

Tehachapi & Red Rock Canyon State Park

Red Rock Cliff in Red Rock Canyon State Park
It has been a while since I updated my travel blog. My travels continue, but an extra wet winter severely limited my trips to local spots already covered in previous posts. I finally had a chance to take some vacation and head to the desert for some photography and nature. First stop was to cross the Tehachapi Pass and pass through Red Rock Canyon State Park towards Death Valley.

Affogato from Moo Creamery
Anyone driving through central California has passed through Bakersfield and Tehachapi at least once. Highway 58 connects Barstow with the Pacific Coast, but is mostly used to cross the mountains between the San Joaquin Valley and the Mojave Desert. Bakersfield is a usual pit stop on the way since most travelers arrive here around lunchtime. My favorite place is Moo Creamery which is a modern soda fountain serving burgers and ice cream that is worth the drive. They were out of their iconic Bacon Love ice cream, but settling for their massive affogato may be my new favorite. Hopefully the new High Speed Rail will include a branch!

Burial Site of Cesar Chavez and Wife
As you climb out of Bakersfield, you quickly change from farm lands to mountain chaparral. Highway 58 is a freeway during most of this section, but exiting in Keene allows you to visit the Cesar Chavez National Monument and Tehachapi Loop. The Cesar Chavez National Monument honors the legacy of Chavez with a museum and garden including the burial grounds. Cesar played an important role advocating for human rights in the agricultural industry, and even today the monument holds naturalization ceremonies on March 31 in honor of the state holiday.

Tehachapi Loop
Before the highway, most of the traffic over the pass was done by rail. The Tehachapi Loop is an engineering landmark in which trains climb up the grade in a large loop. The train passes over itself in a unique and very photogenic way. Most of the route is still single track, and most freight rail now passes through Los Angeles, but there are still several trains that use this track. I was very fortunate to catch a train at the right time for a great shot.

Tehachapi Pastry at Red Rock Canyon
Taking the long and winding road into the town of Tehachapi takes a bit longer but really shows off the beauty of the pass. After hitting the monument and loop, the road drops you into the valley where you can stop at the famous Kohnen's Country Bakery for fresh pastries and bread or just stare at the many wind turbines using the abundant - and somewhat annoying - wind to provide clean electricity for the state. Tehachapi is a popular stop for locals and a nice place to pick up some treats for the rest of your journey. I snagged a delicious raspberry danish for an afternoon treat.

Red Rock Canyon State Park
Living near Sedona, I am used to spectacular red sandstone cliffs and canyons. Red Rock Canyon State Park is a much smaller, but still beautiful version between Mojave and Ridgecrest. Most of the desert southwestern United States was under the same large sea, so many of the formations are similar across the region. There are several picnic areas with spectacular views, but the best time to visit the park is in the morning hours when the light is shining directly on the walls. Fortunately, most of the features are close to the road making it easy to stop and enjoy.

Prime Rib Dinner in Ridgecrest
The end of my day's journey was in the city of Ridgecrest, CA. This is the largest city near Death Valley and is often used as a base camp for visitors - even though the park is 2 hours away. The city is surrounded by military bases and is home to a lot of active and retired personnel. For me, it was a nice hotel room, a great hot tub, and a perfect prime rib dinner before heading to the middle of nowhere to visit Death Valley. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.

Cesar Chavez National Monument Entrance
Red Rock Canyon State Park
New Highway Rest Stop near Bakersfield, CA