As a man who loves trains, it was only a matter of time before I finally took a long-distance train ride across the United States. Amtrak operates several long-distance trains that cover much of the same routes of the classic American trains that used to be the best option before the Interstate Highway System forever changed the country. The California Zephyr recreates most of the original route between Oakland, CA and Chicago, IL stopping in Salt Lake City and Denver. This route is considered one of the most scenic routes in the world and absolutely lives up to its reputation.
Free Coffee in the Superliner Roomette
Most people have ridden a train in their lifetime. There are many commuter railroads, intercity rail - domestic & international, and classic scenic railroads with steam and classic options. Few people under the age of 40 have ever spent two days on a train. My trip left Sacramento, CA at 11:00 AM on a Tuesday and arrived in Chicago at 4:00 PM on a Thursday. That's 50 hours! I splurged and had a Superliner Roomette which is essentially two large chairs facing each other in a closet with a large picture window to the world. At night, the attendant converts the room into twin bunk beds complete with sheets and a mattress.
Daytime Seat with Pillow
I was very surprised in the overall comfort of the room. It is extremely small and basic, but its functional layout, including power outlets and lighting, makes it a good option for single or couple travel. The rooms are on two levels of the train with shared bathrooms. I had no major problems with the bathrooms other than a rather awkward shower once the train started moving. Lots of privacy is available in the sleeping car with free meals and lots of coffee, juice, and ice water.
Train Climbing the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Truckee, CA
The first day of the trip involves passing over the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range between Sacramento and Reno. The route roughly follows Interstate 80 - or should I say Interstate 80 roughly follows the route since the tracks were here first! You get a very different view of the mountains from the train, although many sections have views from one side of the train only. It takes about 5 hours to arrive in Reno, but the time seems to slip away as you are mesmerized by the spectacular scenery. You can also have lunch on the train. Food is included with the sleeping car, but is available for purchase for those in coach.
Amtrak Steak with Baked Potato and Vegetables
Speaking of food, this is one of the less interesting part of the trip. On a multi-day trip, you will eat a lot of meals. Amtrak has a standard menu of breakfast, lunch, and dinner with only a few items. The food is just OK, nothing really special, but you can join your fellow passengers for a nice conversation. Alcohol is available on board for purchase, but make sure to bring lots of cash. On my trip, the dining car did not accept credit cards the whole trip and ATM are very rare on the trip. Most of the passengers are older, retired couples with most of the younger passengers eating in coach so be prepared for conversations about Social Security and grandkids!
Sunrise in Southern Utah
Sleeping on the train is a challenge. Some people can sleep like a baby while under fire rolling in a tank. Others like me need a nice bed and a quiet dark room. The train is a noisy and jolting experience. The motion of the train can be both soothing and jarring as the wheels hit joints in the track or pass over switchers. You will hear and feel everything, so you may have sleeping problems if you are sensitive to this. Needless to say, I did not get much sleep on the train alternating between hot and cold from the weak HVAC system and being pushed to either side of the bed all night long. Fortunately the lower bunk is long enough for most tall men, but the top bunk is really for the shorter companion.
Crossing the Rockies following the Colorado River
The second day of the train is just absolutely spectacular! I slept through most of Utah even though the train stopped to exchange several passengers in the early morning hours. Interestingly enough, most of the train's passengers do not go the whole route. Many use Amtrak to go between cities or to connect from smaller cities along the route. This was also a nice excuse to get off the train for a "fresh air break" or "smoke break" depending on your habit.
Most of the day however was spent gawking at the awesome scenery as the train followed the Colorado River on its long and windy path up into the Rocky Mountains. Be warned, there are many people on the river rafting and fishing and some of them really enjoy mooning and flashing the train as it slowly but surely chugs its way up into the heavens.
Far Left Outfield of Coors Field in Denver, CO
The California Zephyr uses the Moffat Tunnel to make the last six mile journey under the mountains at a top elevation of 9,239 feet. A not insignificant part of the journey uses a single track, including the long tunnel trip, which can lead to some impressive delays waiting for a freight train to pass. It is common to stop on a side rail for some time waiting on freight trains as they have priority on the rails. Amtrak is given certain slots and delays can quickly cascade causing sometimes insurmountable delays. This is the main reason efforts are underway to build dedicated high-speed rail for passengers and add additional capacity to eliminate bottlenecks. Freight usually does not care about delays, but people do.
Corn Fields between Denver and Chicago
After leaving Denver, the train journey changes drastically. I was able to sleep - or attempt to sleep - during the whole state of Nebraska. I saw Omaha and Des Moines last year, so I did not miss anything new. After breakfast, it is just a long flat ride through hundreds of miles of corn and coal train delays. Yes, that wonderful coal that not only is polluting our air and warming the planet is also clogging up the railroad. Boo coal! After two nights rolling around the bunk, I was fortunate we were only about an hour late arriving in Chicago.
Finally Approaching Downtown Chicago
I now understand why we stopped using trains. The railroads really only care about freight and are able to maintain a basic system with lots of delays and rough rails because coal and ethanol do not complain about the trip. This cavalier attitude convinced the United States to invest in Interstate Highways as an alternative. What about the airlines you say? They did not destroy the rails nearly as much as subsidized interstate trucking and long-distance family car trips. Airlines grabbed a decent amount of the market, but without the lucrative intercity passenger and high-value freight, our rail system has disintegrated into a bargain basement system for slowly moving low value freight long distances.
Rural Colorado Ranches and Mountains
I really did enjoy my long journey on the California Zephyr. It is a rather unique vacation and an excellent way to appreciate the raw beauty of the American West. The segment between Sacramento and Denver is really the only part worth taking. One night on the train is enough, and dealing with the motion is really difficult. I was spinning for the entire night upon arrival in Chicago. Bring cash, booze, and lots of snack and you will be OK. Stop in Denver; you might as well get your "land legs" back at a hotel in Denver than wasting a day traveling through endless fields of corn. Please enjoy the rest of my journey below.
Rafters on the Colorado River
Entrance to Trains at Sacramento Valley Station
Staircase and Coffee Machine in Sleeping Car
Hallway in Sleeping Car
Hallway to My Roomette - Last one on the Left
Angus Burger with Swiss Cheese and Chips
Dome Car during the Day
Underground Train Station in Reno
Dome Car at Night
Roomette Bed at Night
French Toast Breakfast with Meat Included
Union Pacific Switcher Locomotives in Grand Junction, CO
It is summer in Sacramento, and that means it is time once again for the California State Fair. This annual tradition goes back a long time and has always been a nice experience for me living in the state capitol. I have been to other state fairs - most recently the Iowa State Fair - and I can honestly say this is the best state fair held in the State of California! This year, I had the opportunity to combine a visit with a special USA Rugby game against Japan.
Bear Topiary near Ferris Wheel
Since this is California, we have to focus on agriculture. We are a major agricultural state, and even in the worst drought in modern history, we are still producing produce, nuts, and wine for export throughout the world. The purpose of all state fairs is to highlight the accomplishments of the state, especially the agricultural contributions. Plus, it is a great excuse to eat a lot of fried food and have some fun!
Winning Horse - Penelope
The California State Fair is held at the California Exposition in Sacramento. The large fairgrounds also contain the local horse race track which is open during the fair. I happened to win $12 on a Show bet in the first race of the day. The track even has a well dressed gentleman who blows his horn to start the races, as is tradition. The weather was also very lucky that day with relatively mild temperatures making everyone feel like a winner.
Brie with Red Wine - Why Not?
California produces a lot of wine. This wine is a major feature of the fair with a large wine garden nestled in the middle of the fairgrounds. All of the top wines winning the fair competitions are available by the glass or bottle for those of legal age to enjoy. Besides being the best alcoholic bargain at an otherwise expensive venue, the selection of top notch wine is always a special treat for me. This popular venue is a always a must stop.
Llama Posing for Picture
Sacramento still has a major agricultural industry, but the focus of the California State Fair is more on craft competitions and amusement. Nevertheless, there are many livestock displays over the whole course of the fair. On my trip, the llamas and longhorn cattle were competing - not one-on-one of course! I like that us city folk get an experience to see livestock and experience the culture. A lot of our meat and clothing come from these animals, but many do not appreciate what it takes to bring that hamburger to your plate.
California Counties Exhibit
By far, the most popular - and unique - competitions at the California State Fair is the Counties Exhibit. Individual California counties create exhibits of varying scale and complexity. Unfortunately, the exhibits tend to only attract a few counties, although a few notable rural counties make sure their exhibits take top prize. Where is Alameda? What about Riverside and Orange? Who has heard from Kern lately?
Top Prize Crafts from Kids
One of the more interesting parts for me is to see all the craft exhibits. They feature submissions from ornate quilts to amazing photography. Their fine art exhibit is just like walking through a museum. It is fascinating to see the creativity of California produce so much beautiful and inventive arts and crafts. The real treat is the kids competition where children are creating spectacular items that would rival most adult submissions.
Jumbo Corn Dog including 1 and 1/2 Hot Dogs
But seriously, most fairs are really about the food. Even in the past, fairs have featured all sorts of indulgences from ice cream and pie to fried chicken and hot dogs. Modern fair cuisine has evolved to all things bacon, deep fried everything including watermelon, Oreos, and artichokes. You can easily eat yourself sick with the many booths peddling everything thing you desire. On my trip, I stuck to the above pictured corn dog, cheese curds, brie cheese plate, and cinnamon roll. Those rolls are very well loved by the masses. Next year, deep fried Zantac.
USA Rugby in White against Japan in Red
Rugby is a fun game that I am surprised is not more popular in the United States. It is like football with each team trying to put the oversized football-shaped ball into the end zone or attempt a kick. However, the opposing team cannot tackle or hit the players very hard which explains the clear lack of protective equipment, and the forward pass is prohibited. Even without hard hits, this is a rough game with players actively wrestling for the ball and quickly passing the ball across the field. The USA Eagles waited until the second half to finally start playing, but they eventually took the lead and won the game 23-18 with the fewest number of tries that I have ever seen.
Midway Rides at Night
As the Earth finally rotated the fair from day to night, the midway rides lit up with neon and electric light beyond the successful rugby game. Fair goers were treated to an extra long night packed with fireworks and cotton candy before heading back to their boring homes and hotels. Fortunately, the California State Fair will be back next year - creating a new set of deep fried memories for everyone. Please enjoy the rest of my pictures below.
You have to try very hard to take a bad photograph of Lake Tahoe. The place is custom made for excellent photography with giant mountains, massive clear water, and lots of great trees and clouds. Summer in Lake Tahoe is normally very crowded, but my trip allowed me to visit on a Tuesday which was much less packed and more enjoyable.
Highway Sign at Mt Rose Summit
I took the Mount Rose Highway from Reno to Incline Village. This beautiful road is steep and windy, but it quickly takes you to one of the most spectacular places on Earth. The summit is nearly 9,000 feet above sea level and is usually packed with tourists and trucks building the next great thing in the area.
Lake Tahoe Shore near Sand Harbor
The eastern shore of Lake Tahoe is mostly in Nevada with most of the area a designated state park. This makes it much more rustic and natural than the more developed western shore. Sand Harbor is an excellent natural beach and cove between Incline Village and Cave Rock and is a favorite stop for me due to the massive boulders and clear water. On this weekend, the skies were alive with baby thunderstorm clouds - cumulonimbus to be exact - developing on the horizon and decorating my frame with spectacular results.
Sand Harbor Beach
Even on a weekday, Sand Harbor quickly fills up and becomes very popular. Sometimes, Lake Tahoe is just too beautiful for words, and this visit was one of them. I was very fortunate to catch her in all her beauty and attempt to capture it in photographs. Many other artists were busy painting among the rocks with the rest simply basking in the overall awesomeness.
Yours Truly Enjoying Lake Tahoe
The only thing that could cut the trip short was a massive afternoon thunderstorm. Who would have guesses that all those pretty clouds would actually do something? It was a nice weekend with some good relaxation and amazing photography. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.
