Thursday, December 6, 2018

Pacific Coast Highway & Monterey - August 2018

Bixby Bridge along Highway 1
It was always a dream of mine to drive California Highway 1 between San Simeon and Monterey. The Pacific Coast Highway hugs the California coastline across most of the state, but this section is the most remote and most harrowing part of the journey. Most of the route are winding switchbacks perched precariously above the roaring surf below with sheer cliffs on both sides of your vehicle.

Highway Bridge
The entire highway seems an affront to Mother Nature cutting through landscape like it does not belong. It is a constant battle with landslides often shutting down the road and causing lots of maintenance. There are a few small towns along this route, but most of it is rural and unspoiled. This makes it truly spectacular and unusually serene. I was able to stop often along the route to enjoy the scenery.

Elephant Seals along the Route
All said, it takes about 3 hours to drive the route straight. I highly recommend taking all day with lots of stops. The drive is rather intense with a lot of effort and nerve required to survive the curves and traffic. My day began overcast and ended with beautiful sun near Big Sur. Driving northbound allows you to hug the inland side of the road instead of the ocean side, although the road is relatively safe in most areas. Make sure to gas up before hand as the limited stations charge a lot!

Cannery Row in Monterey
I ended my drive in Monterey. That meant I was able to brave the Monterey Bay Aquarium and its steep admission fees. What do you expect when all the animals eat gourmet seafood? The aquarium is truly world class attracting visitors from around the globe. Even on a weekday, the place was packed with visitors of all ages. Make sure to enjoy every exhibit and eat beforehand since the on site cafeteria is pricy and not that good. The aquatic exhibits are very good and helped calm my nerves after tackling the PCH. Unfortunately, they were all sold out of the cool T-Shirts.

Sunset near Fort Ord
The end of my day and trip was sunset at the beach. My hotel was within walking distance of the beach, and I arrived just in time to see the last minutes of the day and several whales in Monterey Bay. We all watched the day end in awesome glory. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.

Rural California Coast
Cuttlefish Exhibit at Monterey Bay Aquarium
Moon Jellies at Monterey Bay Aquarium
Tide Pools at Monterey Bay Aquarium
Feeding the Penguins at Monterey Bay Aquarium
Monterey Bay Coastline in Monterey
Humpback Whale Spouts in Monterey Bay

Paso Robles & Hearst Castle - August 2018

Neptune Pool at Hearst Castle
I have grown to appreciate the Central Coast of California over the last few years. This part of California has wineries, beaches, and a lot of rural coastal cities with fun and interesting diversions. After a particularly hectic August, I took a week of to drive down the coast to Paso Robles and Hearst Castle. Although somewhat remote, this area is a relatively short drive from the major metropolitan areas in the state.

Mission San Miguel
The California Coast is home to a lot of history from the Spanish Missions. Early settlements followed El Camino Real up the coast which created a lot of the city names and architectural forms typical in the region. It also lead to the Mission Burrito which is now responsible for the Chipotle craze. Paso Robles has no mission in town, but they are close to San Miguel which has a mission used privately as a church. There is a small museum, and the grounds are open for a short walking tour. The facility is in good condition and worth a stop.

Vineyards near Paso Robles
The region also has a rather interesting wine region. This part of California is fairly dry, but there are many microclimates that make some very good grapes for some equally good wine. I prefer the Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir from the area, but there are lots of good Syrah and Spanish varietals that thrive in the climate. Most of the wineries are now a little too posh with high tasting fees and spotty quality, but the region is still worth it - especially on a sunny Sunday afternoon!

Yes, it is really disgusting
Since I have been to the area several times before, this trip gave me time to further explore both San Luis Obispo and Morro Bay. San Luis Obispo - or SLO - is located inland nestled in a valley and is home to a large university. Based on the proliferation of cute high end retail shops in downtown, this area is likely home to a lot of wealthy people as well. The picture is from "Bubblegum Alley" which is a rather disgusting alley filled with chewed gum stuck to the wall in a rather crude art. The smell is very strong and nauseating. Even writing this makes me a little sick. Fortunately, there are several coffee shops nearby with a much better morning smell.

Private Study at Hearst Castle
One of the jewels of the Central Coast is the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument, otherwise known as Hearst Castle. This massive mansion was designed by William Randolph Hearst with little expense spared. It was done in a castle style perched high on a hill overlooking the landscape. Most of the surrounding area was owned by Hearst and was ranched and farmed to provide food for the facility. A lot of the land was sold off, but the surrounding area is still an active private ranch with only the buildings donated to the state for the park. The building is simply spectacular with a strong attention to detail. It takes several trips to really see just a small portion of the fabulous "ranch" and to appreciate what it must have been like in the Roaring 20's to be invited for a private party.

Morro Rock with Fish and Chips
There is always plenty to see, eat, and drink on the Central Coast. It is a fun and quick getaway still rather untouched by the hoards of vacationers from SF and LA. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.

Don't leave home without it
Graveyard Entrance at Mission San Miguel
Mission San Miguel Courtyard
Church Interior at Mission San Miguel
Old Gate at Mission San Miguel
Adelaida Vineyards
Bubblegum Alley, not Diagon Alley
Warning Signs for Nuclear Accidents
Library at Hearst Castle
Bedroom at Hearst Castle
Exterior of Hearst Castle

Tuesday, December 4, 2018

Vancouver, B.C. - July 2018

Art Installation on Beach in Downtown Vancouver
On almost every trip to Seattle, I ponder a trip to Canada. Our friendly neighbor to the north is somewhat close to Seattle, especially if you are staying north of downtown. The drive is only about two hours, but you will have to cross the international border which often backs up with traffic and customs delays. On a summer trip to Seattle, I had enough daylight to take a day trip across the border to visit Vancouver.

First Stop - Tim Hortons
I previously visited Vancouver in 2006, flying into the city and renting a car for a long trip exploring the city and surrounding areas. The border crossing was delayed and traffic was building in Vancouver so my phone directed me towards the eastern side of the city. Fortunately, switching wireless coverage was automatic which allowed me to keep my GPS connectivity for the trip. The back roads took me past a Tim Hortons for a quick snack and cash withdrawal. This prepared me for a hair-raising drive through urban Vancouver heading for the Lynn Canyon suspension bridge.

Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge
There is a famous suspension bridge near Vancouver that carries bus loads of tourists across a tall and treacherous valley nearby, but I was unwilling to part with so much of that fancy Canadian money. The one at the Lynn Canyon Park is just as thrilling and much cheaper, maybe even more so with the smaller size and unauthorized cliff diving. This was a bit of a thrill dangling so high over the river, but my nerves forced a rather quick pass. Fortunately the surrounding park calms the nerves with lots of tall evergreens and locals escaping an unusual heat wave.

Macaroni & Cheese is Kraft Dinner in Canada - KD!
I always enjoy all the small differences in Canada. They are very much like the United States, but everything is just a little different. A trip to Canadian Tire or Shoppers Drug Mart shows this with many American items and all those great Canadian options like ketchup potato chips, maple flavored everything, and a lot of Asian specialities catering to the large population of immigrants on the west coast of Canada. Customs has becoming much more forgiving, allowing Americans to import a lot of this tasty stuff back across the border.

Traditional Canadian Poutine
Speaking of food, I cannot visit Canada without having my favorite national dish - poutine. This classic dish of French fries topped with fresh cheese curds and brown gravy is as delicious as its simplicity. The best versions are usually the basic options at greasy spoons catering to the locals. I found such a place in downtown and chomped away in the window watching the city of Vancouver pass before me. The owner knew I was American by my accent by the way!

Museum of Anthropology at University of British Columbia
It is not a visit to Vancouver without a stop at the Museum of Anthropology on the campus of the University of British Columbia. My first visit to Vancouver had me staying at the campus in summer dorms which is a great option and allowed me to better explore this vast museum. They have a spectacularly large and diverse collection of native art and artifacts from around the world with a large focus on British Columbia first nations. The collection includes several replica poles and houses typical of native cultures. Modern curators are striking a good balance of educating the public while respecting the wishes of the native cultures. Braver souls can venture just past the museum to the popular nude beach below the museum as well. If only I had more time...

The Canadian Border
Alas, it was time to head back to the border to visit my last stop at the Peach Arch State Park. Interstate 5 ends at the Canadian border and terminates in a small international park best accessed through the United States side. After a relatively easy entry back in the United States, I circled back and entered the park. The actual border is a line in the grass flanked by a massive arch and symbolic gates locked open permanently to show the relationship between the two countries. You can wander around the park crossing the border as you wish, but you must exit on the side in which you entered. In a world of border fences, it is somewhat cool to see the international border as a small ditch at the edge of a park with a Canadian jogging along the street!

International Traveler
It is a rather long and exhausting journey from Seattle to Vancouver. I do not recommend it as a day trip any more due to border delays and poor traffic in Vancouver. However, the destination remains one of the jewels of Canada and the Pacific Northwest. I often recommend visiting Vancouver and Portland instead of Seattle for a better experience. Hopefully we will eventually divert a tiny bit of money away from fighting other countries and build a high speed rail connection to Vancouver from Seattle to better connect such great cities. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.

Border Crossing into Canada
Lynn Canyon Provincial Park
Don't Cliff Dive!
Native Art at Museum of Anthropology
Totem Poles at Museum of Anthropology
The bottom of the pole is really the place of honor
Inside the Replica Great House at Museum of Anthropology
Border Crossing into United States
Peace Arch
International Border Marker
Peach Arch State Park near Sunset

Boise - July 2018

Downtown Boise from State Capitol
It is somewhat fitting that a California boy visits Boise, Idaho. This state capitol of one the lesser visited states is now home to many transplants from California, Arizona, and other western states including one of my good college friends. I took advantage of this and flew nonstop to Boise to visit for a few days in July. Previously, I drove through eastern Idaho heading towards Yellowstone, but this was my first visit to the capitol.

Botanical Gardens next to Old Penitentiary
Boise is a rather small city compared to many metropolitan areas, but the recent spectacular growth is quickly converting the small farming community into a booming urban area. The region is mainly hilly grassland with typical dry western conditions. The beautiful Boise River flows through the city and the valley and is host to a popular tubing trip which me and my friend took great advantage of on a warm sunny Sunday. After a cold shock, we floated down the river enjoying the natural and human scenery for over two hours.

Idaho State Capitol
The state capitol of Idaho is in Boise and is a rather large and ornate building that dominates the city. The ratio of legislators to citizens is very low in Idaho compared to other states. Historically a democrat stronghold, most of the state is dominated by modern conservative republicans with a feisty western attitude. A lot of the state history is documented in the capitol and showcases a surprisingly progressive past. It was refreshing to enter and wander without the usual security concerns in other states.

Laura Potato Fries from Boise Fry Company
Potatoes are still king in Idaho. They are everywhere including many special varietals beyond baked and new. A local fast food chain - Boise Fry Company - has several varieties deep fried with many dipping sauces including the unique local fry sauce. Farming still dominates the area as land is converted from crops to new homes, sometimes surrounding the lone hold out farmer. Many people are moving here to escape the city while actually bringing most of it with them. In a few years, Boise will be similar to Sacramento or Albuquerque.

Biscuit and Gravy at Goldy's
It is hard to recommend visiting Boise, but the quaint charm of a small farming town is quickly turning into a new home for many people. The city is growing with the normal growing pains, but many people enjoy the atmosphere and brought their Thai food and gourmet coffee with them. Like many western cities, Boise has a lot of travelers and transplants looking for a better life along side the generations of potato farmers who made this sleepy valley famous. Please enjoy the rest of my photos below.

Fountains at Outdoor Mall in Meridian
New Homes outside Boise
Downtown Boise
Central Rotunda of the Idaho State Capitol
Idaho House of Representatives
Idaho Senate
Botanical Gardens Pathway
Native Landscape and Art at Botanical Gardens